Surfing Waves from the Ocean to the River with the Serre-Green-Naghdi Equations
نویسندگان
چکیده
A wide variety of hydraulic and coastal flows can be modeled using shallow water theories, where the so-called Serre-Green-Naghdi (SGN) equations constitute a fully nonlinear weakly dispersive wave theory that has been successfully applied in fluvial maritime contexts. In present contribution, we show SGN models with wave-breaking parameterizations reproduce challenging processes surf swash zones including wave–wave interactions infragravity generation from narrow-band swell spectrum. The excellent performance model motivates us to explore its application simplified bar-built river configuration zone–generated waves may propagate upstream river. We long-wave penetration is controlled by Froude number over bar, these long give rise solitonic dynamics. power spectral density (PSD) signature free surface time series slope ∼f−1 range consistent latter, as also found field observations. Transferring energy into lower frequencies observed numerical experiment upstream; nevertheless, low-frequency cascades back band. Standard linear Fourier analysis fail showing hidden dynamics, so techniques would need elucidate fate while propagating mouths.
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ژورنال
عنوان ژورنال: Journal of Hydraulic Engineering
سال: 2023
ISSN: ['0733-9429', '1943-7900']
DOI: https://doi.org/10.1061/jhend8.hyeng-13487